It seems my gut had a premonition this morning that the day would unfold like a beautifully written joke at my expense, though reality often crafts worse punchlines than any writer could conjure. Mounting the bicycle was an ordeal. It appeared I had finally tapped into some elusive rest, but alas, it was time to push my limits once more.
By now, the wind and I are old acquaintances in Denmark, if you stick around long enough, there isn’t much else besides wind and rain. They might claim otherwise, but two weeks do not make a summer! Today, the morning gusts were sheer madness. At points, it was a battle to keep the bike on course, with my speed dipping below 20 km/h on flat, straight stretches. After a grueling 30km, I paused just to catch my breath, and at 40km, I was on the edge of calling it quits and trying again tomorrow. Fortunately, the wind eased up slightly, and I found some respite in a less windy area.
Navigating main roads deprived of bicycle lanes amidst the chaos of traffic was a trial. Trucks, to their credit, maintained a respectful distance, but the smaller vehicles zipping by at uncomfortably close quarters was hardly pleasant.
Croatia’s natural beauty is undeniable, but it’s marred by less than commendable behavior. The hills and forests I cycled through were strewn with trash, not just the casual toss from a car window type but significant roadside and forest dumps. Ironically, the signs urging people not to litter seem to encourage the opposite, with the largest piles accumulating right beneath them.
Despite missing the cold crispness of the Alps, I’m embracing the heatwave tailing me. Yet, after guzzling down 4 liters of liquid and still feeling parched, I decided to cool off a bit. Big mistake. I stopped at a local bar, parked my bike by the terrace, and within minutes, chaos rolled up in the form of a car. The driver, after a bizarre parking lot ballet, managed to collide with my bike. He halted after my shouts, then proceeded to park directly into a tree. Observing his subsequent struggle to exit the car and communicate, I wasn’t shocked by his lack of vehicular control. My fury demanded an extra hour to simmer down.
Today’s ride has me retracting any prior criticism of German cycling paths, at least they exist. Perhaps it’s partly my fault for choosing efficiency over scenery, but based on today’s experiences, I wouldn’t recommend cycling here in Croatia as a leisure activity.
The day’s sole saving grace was being greeted by family and my favorite dish, sarma, at journey’s end. The evening was sweetened, but the taste of the day remains decidedly bitter.
Tomorrow, I venture into the hills. I’ll need all the rest I can get, not just for the climb but to brace myself against the relentless sun. Let’s see how far I can push it.
Also, not sure how to keep numbering the days, if it is the 13th day of the adventure or part 2 day 1 or day 1 of new adventure, I will just stop the counting and for those of you that follow can take as you prefer. 🙂
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